September 24th, October 8th, and 22nd on Zoom
$35 for the three classes together
Look down, close to the ground. The world around you can be amazing if you take the time to pause and appreciate it. This autumn I hope we can translate a few delicate scenes into some creative artwork of our own.
Colchicum are often called Autumn Crocus. They pop out of the ground as days grow shorter and the weather grows cooler. Their soft white and pink-lavender blossoms are beautiful. I will demonstrate a blossom as it emerges from the ground.
Our friend Meena observed some small butterflies enjoying the nectar on a wild flower on her recent visit to Wyoming. She would like to paint it and is sharing her photo with all of us so we can paint as well.
There are some terrific parallels between these two scenes and I thought demonstrating them as a pair would enable us to incorporate similar techniques in two different paintings.
Because of the complexity in these photos, I would like to take three classes to complete the variety of features pictured.
I will demonstrate using two different media—watercolor paints or watercolor pencils and add optional graphite pencil for detail and texture. You can choose your medium and can choose to paint either one or both of these photos.
If you would like to attend the classes but don’t want to attend all three, let me know and I’ll figure out some way to make this work for you.
I finished the Wyoming scene 2 different ways, which I will explain in class. The autumn crocus scene is in process, but this will give you an idea of the piece.
MEDIA: WATERCOLOR PAINT OPTION: Cobalt Violet (I like Winsor&Newton brand especially), Quinacridone Pink, Sap Green, Indigo, Burnt Sienna, Sepia, Aureolin (Yellow), New Gamboge
WATERCOLOR PENCIL OPTION: Purple Violet, Middle Purple Pink, Fuchsia, Earth Green Yellow, Permanent Green Olive, Heliotrope Blue Red, Burnt Ochre, Inktense Dark Chocolate, Light Yellow Glaze, Cadmium Yellow
GRAPHITE PENCILS: 2H or 4H, H or HB
PAPER: I used hot press watercolor paper but you can choose cold press watercolor paper if you prefer.
PROCEDURE FOR INITIAL STAGES OF THE BACKGROUND WYOMING VIGNETTE:
DRAWING
*I don’t need to draw the thistle-like flower in detail, just determine the shape of the flower and outline it with some bristles at the edges
*Draw the butterflies, being careful to get the perspective correct.
*Remember to draw some thistle-like hairs on the stem and leaves if desired.
*Draw the box and possibly surround it with art tape for clean edges. This isn’t essential.
MASKING
*If you want, use masking fluid around the edges of the plant and butterflies. Remember to include some bristles sticking out in the flower, leaves, and stem using a plastic toothpick.
*You don’t need to use masking fluid if you don’t want to. You can just avoid the plant and butterflies with your brush.
PAINTING THE BACKGROUND
* Paint with watercolors: burnt sienna, sepia, indigo, with slight amount of quinacridone pink or cobalt violet.
* Techniques: either wet the paper in the background only and drop in paint
* Or paint the burnt sienna on dry paper then drop in the other paints while the burnt sienna is still wet. Dilute the paint, leaving some of the paper empty for a light look.
* Dry
* Repeat 1 or 2 more times for depth.
* If you prefer to use only watercolor pencils on this piece, either just glaze with the watercolor pencils or use them dry, wetting afterwards. Keep them light in value.
FLOWER
MASK a few thistle bristles with a plastic toothpick if you choose.
TOP of FLOWER
Stage#1:
* color CobViolet, and bit of Quinacridone Pink
* add lines *define, crisp it up
* If using Watercolor Pencil, choose Midde Purple Pink with touches of Fuchsia and Helioblue-red
Stage#2:
* darken in a few spots at the base of the violet area.
BOTTOM GREEN SECTION
Stage#1: diluted Aureolin wash. Dry.
Stage#2: add definition in the sepals using touches of Sap, Cobalt Violet, and diluted Indigo.
BUTTERFLIES
YELLOW BUTTERFLY
Stage#1: Add a diluted Aureolin wash. Dry.
Stage#2: Add details with Burnt Sienna or watercolor pencils such as Burnt Ochre or use a Graphite 2H pencil.
BACK BUTTERFLY
Stage#1: Either leave the basic white paper or use a diluted wash of Titanium or Chinese white as the first layer.
Stage#2: Add a bit of detail with diluted Indigo, Sap, or just use a 2H pencil. I am not emphasizing detail on this butterfly.
LEAVES and STEM
Stage#1: Add a diluted Aureolin glaze
Stage#2: Accent with Sap, diluted Indigo or use watercolor pencils here such as Earth Green Yellow with touches of Helioblue-red or use Graphite in 2H
Stage#3: If desired, you can add a white such as Titanium White or White Ink to suggest the hairs along the stem and leaves.
CONTINUING BACKGROUND
I added a bit of diluted Indigo in horizontal strokes to darken the value of the background. I also added a touch of diluted Sap in a few spots as well. This should bring the flower forward visually in your painting.
At this point, you have a decision to make. If you want, you can choose to leave the background at this stage. I give an example of this in the first photo of my artwork above.
If, though, you want to suggest the texture and small pebbles and plant bits in the background you can add a graphite pencil or watercolor pencil. I used a graphite pencil in mainly horizontal strokes and photographed this, the second painting above.
PROCEDURE FOR INITIAL STAGES OF THE BACKGROUND AUTUMN CROCUS VIGNETTE:
DRAWING
* Draw the flower.
* Draw some leaves. These will be painted with some definition. I drew these hanging over the box.
* Some leaves will just be suggested with paint when I do the background. You can either draw these or just paint the shapes with your brush.
* Draw the box.
MASKING
* I didn’t mask this at all. I just avoided the flower and the foreground leaves. You can mask if you want.
PAINTING THE BACKGROUND
* Paint with watercolors: sepia, cobalt violet, indigo, aureolin, and sap.
* Techniques: either wet the paper in the background only and drop in paint or paint on dry paper using blocks of color in the above colors. Make sure to leave some of the paper free of paint and dilute the paint enough to keep things light and airy looking.
* Dry
* Repeat for depth.
* If you prefer to use only watercolor pencils on this piece you can either draw first then wet or just glaze with the watercolor pencils.
FLOWER
* I used a little cobalt violet at the base of each petal and, as I painted each petal with my brush, diluted it as I moved up toward the tip of the petal. This should give me more color at the base but mostly white paper showing as you approach the tip.
* After this dried I added a little detail and darkened the value a little at the base, using more cobalt violet or indigo. This could also be easily accomplished with a middle purple pink or similarly colored watercolor pencil.
CONTINUING THE BACKGROUND
* In the initial washes I tried to suggest bark on the bottom, leaf and crocus-colored areas toward the middle, and leaf color and just background blue shapes in the top area. Now I will just add a bit of paint, watercolor pencil, or graphite pencil to add a bit of definition to a few of these color areas.
* The bark area was defined a little with darker value sepia or brown watercolor pencil or graphite.
* In a few of the leaves I added a little definition in the veins of leaves. I also added a bit of darker value to shape the leaves.
* In a few of the violet areas I added a little darker value to suggest some crocus shapes.
* I added a little darker value at a few of the spots where the background and the flower meet.
The Wyoming Vignette with initial stages of background washes
The Wyoming Vignette with additional layers of background washes
Autumn Crocus Drawing
With initial background washes
With initial flower washes
CARDINAL on a BRANCH with BERRIES November 5th
MINI WINTER, CHRISTMAS VIGNETTES November 19th
$25 for the two classes together or $15 if you choose a single class
My goal with each of these small simple paintings is to discuss and demonstrate some pieces to display or share as a gift in this season. I plan to use a variety of media and supports (papers, canvas, boards) for options you all might like to try in your artwork.
Watercolor Pencils Prismacolor White. Watercolor Pencils are Albrecht-Durer by Faber-Castell unless noted
Female: Cream, Derwent Watercolor Pencil Raw Sienna, Cadmium Orange, Cadmium Dark Orange, Pale Geranium Lake,
Raw Umber, Burnt Ochre, Derwent Inktense Dark Chocolate or Bark, Helioblue-Reddish
Male: Pale Geranium Lake, Dark Cadmium Orange, Dark Red, Inktense Dark Chocolate or Bark, Helioblue-Reddish
Watercolor Paints: Raw Sienna, Light Red, Cobalt Blue, Scarlet Lake, Burnt Sienna, Sepia, Alizarin Crimson (option on Male only)
Dr. Ph Martin Bombay Ink Yellow Ochre
Graphite pencil 2H or 4H
Background Watercolor Pencil Possibilities: Cold Gray I, Cobalt Turquoise, Graphitints Cloud Gray and/or Steel Blue and/or
Slate Green
WATERCOLOR FEMALE CARDINAL PROCEDURE
--Draw the bird.
WATERCOLOR PAINT PROCEDURE
-- The base is a Raw Sienna diluted wash, more in belly and head, less in lower wings and tail. Leave white of paper around the lower edge of belly and tail. Dry. If you want you can add a bit of Quinacridone Gold or New Gamboge to brighten the Raw Sienna.
--Add a diluted wash of either Scarlet Lake or Quinacridone Red to the lower wings and tail. Add just a touch around the face, head, and upper chest. Dry
--Use a mixture of Light Red and Cobalt Blue in the darker areas. This mixture will dilute well into soft warm or cool grays in some areas, but stronger darks around the face and to indicate the lower wing and tail.
--Leave a spot of white in the eye, then apply a dark there as well.
WATERCOLOR PENCIL PROCEDURE
--Draw the bird.
--Cream is the base of the warm areas. Either apply wet or dry.
--Layer with Cadmium Orange, Dark Cadmium Orange, Pale Geranium Lake with touches of Raw Sienna (Derwent Watercolor Pencil) or Burnt Ocher.
--Use a mixture of either Inktense Dark Chocolate or Bark and Helioblue-reddish for the darks.
You can add detail to either of these media with either a graphite pencil or watercolor pencils used dry or almost dry.
BACKGROUND
--This is totally your choice. I decided to try to mimic the background I saw in the photo, because it reminded me of a cold winter sky. Next time we will do a different kind of background with the male cardinal. We will place him on a branch of holly. You can choose to do the same with your female cardinal, or just do a simple vignette, or whatever other idea you have.
MALE CARDINAL PROCEDURE
--Draw the bird.
--Use your watercolor paints or pencils to contour the cardinal in the red color.
Watercolor Paints: mainly Scarlet Lake, Scarlet Pyrrol (which is a more orange-red), or Quinacridone Red. Be careful to dilute your media so that the red color doesn’t get too heavy.
Watercolor Pencils: Pale Geranium Lake, Derwent Watercolor Pencil Madder Carmine, and/or Inktense Poppy.
Dry.
--In warmer areas, closer to the highlighted area I might add a little
Watercolor Paints: New Gamboge
Watercolor Pencils: Cadmium Orange and Dark Cadmium Orange
-- To lower the intensity in shaded areas I continue the contouring with
Watercolor Paint: Alizarin Crimson and/or Burnt Sienna
or Watercolor Pencil: Dark Red or Burnt Ochre
Dry.
--I used a little of the lower intensity paints or watercolor pencils to define the wing and tail feather groups.
--I then added the dark areas in a “black” mixture made with mainly dark brown.
Watercolor Paint: Sepia
Watercolor Pencil: Inktense Dark Chocolate or Bark
--I added touches of a cooler color in the dark brown with
Watercolor Paint: a mixture of Cobalt Blue & Light Red or French Ultramarine
Watercolor Pencil: Helioblue Red
--If you want you can add a little of this dark in the wing or tail to suggest the dark feathers.
--Leave a spot of white in the eye, then apply a dark there as well.
BERRY BRANCH OPTION
--Sketch branch with holly and add the cardinal foot to attach the bird to the branch.
--Use the watercolor paints or watercolor pencils to complete the perch for your cardinal.
--Watercolor Paints:
Branch(es)—I left lots of white of paper and added small amounts of Burnt Sienna and possibly a
little Light Red. I wanted to keep them light.
Leaves—I used New Gamboge, Sap Green, and Phthalo Green. It’s important to keep quite a bit of white of paper to shine through so the leaves don’t get too heavy.
Berries—The highlights are preserved by avoiding that area with the paint, leaving the white of the paper shine through. This highlight can be enhanced with white paint (applied later). In the
area closest to the highlight, in the warmest area I used very small amounts of New Gamboge in a few of the berries. I added Scarlet Pyrrol and/or Scarlet Lake for a warmer red. I used Quinacridone Red for a slightly cooler red. I was careful to apply whatever reds I used in very small amounts, leaving lots of white of the paper shining through. White is an important way to keep these berries light. Dry.
*Lower intensity or cooler media can be used to contour the berries, giving them shape. Some paint suggestions would be a very light addition of Phthalo Green (color complement to darken) or Alizarin Crimson (a cooler, darker red), a touch of Burnt Sienna (lower intensity) and/or contouring with a graphite pencil would all be good options. Dry.
*There is a touch of dark at the end of some of the berries. I used a little Burnt Sienna and Sepia in a few berries for this.
*At the end I can enhance the highlight in the berry with white paint if you feel it needs a stronger white.
Background—on my watercolor painting I just chose to do a diluted cobalt blue vignette so I wouldn’t detract from the bird and holly. If you prefer, you can forget about the holly branch and focus
on a more interesting background. I explain one option below. I completed this in watercolor pencil, but you could do it in watercolor paint if you prefer.
WINTER SKY BACKGROUND OPTION
--In my watercolor pencil Male Cardinal demonstration I tried to just suggest a cool winter sky. As in the Female Cardinal I used either watercolor pencils including grays and blues, possibly adding
graphite pencil and/or Graphitint Watercolor Pencils.
--I left lots of white, either white of paper alone or I added Prismacolor White or Watercolor Pencil White. I added small amounts of gray and blue. Here are some options:
*Graphitints: Steel Blue and Cloud Gray
*Watercolor Pencils: Cool Gray I and blues such as helioblue-red and/or cobalt turquoise
*Graphite Pencils: 2H-4H
HOLLY BRANCH PROCEDURE USING WATERCOLOR PENCIL
--I decided my composition and then completed my drawing.
--Leaves: I used mainly greens especially Permanent Green Yellow which I supplemented with Dark Phthalo Green, Light Green, and Light Cobalt Turquoise.
Highlights and Lights: leaving white of the paper supplemented with Prismacolor White Permanent Pencil and a few touches of Cadmium Yellow.
Shading: I used Helioblue-reddish and Ultramarine.
--Berries: Any nice reds you have would be great. Some I like are Pale Geranium Lake, Scarlet Red, Fuchsia, and Derwent Watercolor Pencil Madder Carmine.
These can be warmed up with Cadmium Orange and/or Dark Cadmium Orange or Burnt Ochre.
Highlights in the berries are very important. I used the white of the paper but added Prismacolor Permanent White to enhance it and add substance.
--Branches: I left mostly white of the paper, which I shaped with Burnt Ochre and touches of Raw Umber and Inktense Dark Chocolate.
--Background: I basically decided to continue the idea of leaves, which just vignetted out. I also suggested the box form.
*I focused on darker value toward the middle to focus the viewers eye on the berries and foreground leaves. Some watercolor pencils to darken included Inktense Dark Chocolate, Helioblue-red, and the greens in combination with the reds, because they are color
complements.
*I moved to lighter value and less detailed leaf shapes as I approached the edges.
Watercolor pencils I used included Cream, Light Green, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Orange, and touches of White. I supplemented these with touches of Cobalt Turquoise and Dark Phthalo Green as well as touches of the red and/or browns for interest.
*I added detail at the end with watercolor pencil used dry and a 2 or 4H graphite pencil.
Watercolor Pencil (left) and Watercolor Paint (right) with initial washes
Watercolor Paint (left) and Watercolor Pencil Females immediately after class
Male and Female Cardinals in Watercolor Pencils
Male and Female Cardinals on Claybord surface
Holly on paper
Watercolor Paints used: Alizarin Crimson, Scarlet Pyrrol , Quinacridone Red, Scarlet Lake, New Gamboge, Phthalo Green, Sap Green, Sepia, Burnt Sienna, a combination of Light Red &Cobalt Blue (For gray/black)
If you prefer Watercolor Pencils I suggest: Pale Geranium Lake, Derwent Watercolor Pencil Madder Carmine, Inktense Poppy, Dark Red, Permanent Green Olive, Light Yellow Glaze, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Orange, Dark Cadmium Orange, touches of Dark Phthalo Green, Inktense Dark Chocolate, and Burnt Ochre.
PAPER: I plan to demonstrate a variety of Christmas and Winter Vignettes using a variety of papers and a mini-canvas. Watercolor Paper is appropriate for every project but you might be interested in adding another support as I demonstrate.
Watercolor Pencils in Holly Drawing: Olive Green Yellow, Permanent Green Olive, Dark Phthalo Green, Light Green, Ultramarine, Helioblue Red, Light Cobalt Turquoise, Pale Geranium Lake, Dark Cadmium Orange, Scarlet Red, Fuchsia, Cadmium Orange, Derwent Watercolor Pencil Madder Carmium, Derwent Watercolor Pencil Raw Sienna, Burnt Ochre, Raw Umber, Inktense Dark Chocolate
2H Graphite Pencil
PRODUCTS I USED AND DISCUSSED NOVEMBER 19th
CLAYBORD
This can be used with a wide variety of media and techniques.
The surface is VERY smooth.
It will absorb water very well but it takes a long time to soak in.
My experience with its advantages and disadvantages--
--The time it takes to absorb water can be annoying but it has the advantage of allowing you lots of time to remove a mistake before it sets into the panel.
--The extremely smooth surface allows for very detailed work.
--It works well for washes, yielding quirky hard edged water marks. It isn't as easy as paper to lay smooth washes so you may want to use it for fun wash effects instead.
--It is easy to get very saturated, brilliant color on this surface.
--Marks can be scratched into the surface to get to white.
--You can use fine sand paper to remove an area you don't want
--You can hang the panel without framing if you use a sealing varnish. I use Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating, which comes in Gloss and Satin finishes.
MINI CANVASES
I found these at a very affordable price at both Hobby Lobby and Blick Art Materials. I used Blick Studio Mini 2x4 inch canvases in my demonstrations. I bought them in a 4 pack, which I believe was less than $5.
These are not watercolor canvases, but since they are so tiny, I didn’t bother to coat them with Gesso or a watercolor ground. If you work on a larger canvas (not watercolor canvas, which is especially prepared to accept watercolor paints), you may want to prep it with
gesso.
I also discussed using gesso on the canvas if you want to have a textured surface, such as for the wreath I showed you. The gesso I use is Liquitex brand, but I imagine another brand is great, too.
This surface feels like painting on linen, so not as smooth as claybord. I'd liken it more to working on cold press watercolor paper in terms of “bumpiness” rather than claybord or hotpress watercolor paper.
It absorbs water very well but it takes longer to dry than watercolor paper does. This allows you to easily remove something you don't like before it soaks in.
When I make my initial sketch I am careful to remove any access graphite before painting. I also use a light touch and hard pencil such as 4H.
I find both watercolor paint and watercolor pencil work great on this surface.
I don’t use as much water when painting on this surface.
Even after the paint is dry it lifts out of the canvas much more fully than a painting on paper.
The sides of these can be painted, too, if you like.
When finished I use the Krylon spray described above to protect the painting.
These are fun to display on mini easels, which are very inexpensive.
FOR A BIT OF SHINE:
Winsor & Newton Iridescent Medium I mix this with watercolor paint to make it sparkle a bit. This can also be applied as a top layer over dry watercolor paint.
FW Pearlescent Liquid Acrylics by Daler Rowney I used Silver Moss in my demonstration, but they come in lots of beautiful choices such as Gold, Silver, Bell Bronze, and Birdwing Copper.
Derwent Metallic Watercolor Pencils These are more dramatic on dark paper, but you can still see a bit of sparkle on white surfaces. They can be used dry but they can also be wet, as you would with other watercolor pencils.
MARKERS There are lots of metallic markers. I used a metallic gold in my discussion in class.
Additional Supplies we discussed
The gesso, which can give a textural surface in a wreath, Christmas tree, or any other idea you have:
I used Liquitex Professional Gesso and also Liquitex Professional Super Heavy Gesso
Supplies to give shine:
Watercolor Iridescent Medium (I used Winsor&Newton)
FW Pearlescent Liquid Acrylic Ink
Derwent Metallic Pencils
Sharpie or other markers with shine
The pencil eraser I discussed, especially for the claybord, is called the “Perfection Eraser Pencil 7058B” by Faber Castell
Mini Canvasses
The experiments with texture and painting we did in class
Carolyn mentioned the graphite pencil tree we did in February 2023. Here’s a photo of the graphite drawing part way through and finished. The general instructions follow.
IMPORTANT CONCEPTS and TERMS
*I used 3 graphite pencils: a hard pencil (2H, 3H, or 4H), a mid-range pencil (H or HB), and a softer pencil (2B).
*Value is the most important concept here. I want to use a large value range. The white of the paper was my lightest light. I used 2B for my darkest dark.
*If I wanted to lift a little of the pencil I used a kneaded eraser.
*Negative Drawing is where I indicate a light value object by drawing darker value objects around or behind it. Here I “drew” snow and the branches closest to the front by drawing the darker value branches around and behind them.
*In my Positive Drawing I drew the branches directly using my pencils.
GENERAL PROCEDURE
*Sketch the general form of the tree. Here I imagined a general pyramid with a round base.
*Sketch the edges of this form. Here I drew branch ends, a few with snowy edges.
*Begin drawing in the darker areas of your tree using your H or HB pencil with mostly negative drawing. The darker areas in your tree are in the interior of the tree where the sunlight can’t reach.
*Continue into the lighter areas, with exterior branches and where the branches move closer to the viewer’s eye. I used more positive drawing in these areas, keeping them light using my hard pencil (2H-4H).
*As you get nearer to the end, you can shape the tree as a whole. Where the sunlight focuses, the values will be light. In the shadow areas, add more dark. This is where I can increase the darkest areas using a 2B pencil.
*Contour the snow a little to give the snowy areas a bit of form. This is most important if your tree is more of a close-up. If your tree is supposed to be far away, this is less necessary.
*I indicated a little cast shadow at the bottom of the tree with a H (or HB) pencil.
If you’d like to add color you can add a light wash of watercolor paint or add watercolor pencil on top of your graphite drawing.
I can see adding a little sparkle, star, or ornaments in the tree if you want to make it look more like Christmas, for example.
I hope this helps a little if you are interested in this project. Thanks for suggesting it, Carolyn.
PL McGahan Art
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